From Agent Orange to a 4WD: being an environmentalist in Cape Verde

It is quite possible that my environmentalism started when I was around 10, somewhere in a clear-cut forest in the north of Värmland, Sweden. I and the rest of my family were taking part in a demonstration against airplane pesticide spraying. However unlikely it would seem today, it was customary throughout the 60s and 70s to spray aggressive chemical pesticides (”Hormoslyr”, similar to the chemical “Agent Orange”, used by the USA in the Vietnam War) on forest clearings in Sweden to kill off all deciduous (foliage) trees. To stop this malicious practice, some courageous people positioned themselves in the middle of the clearing, and dressed up in colorful garments so that they were plainly seen from the sky. The pilot was not allowed to spray if people were present, since the pesticide was a direct health threat to humans, and would thus have to turn back.

I vividly remember the mounting tension while having hot chocolate and sandwiches sitting on a big tree-trunk, waiting for the plane to show up. Eventually we would hear a roar from afar and spot the wings in the horizon, getting increasingly nervous that the pilot wouldn’t see us or simply break the rules and spray us anyway (we had brought umbrellas, just in case – not that it would help that much). Luckily enough, the pilots always spotted us and we were never sprayed.

These protest were successful; not only did they stop the spraying temporarily in situ, but they also created a lot of media attention which stirred a ferocious debate leading to the banning of the chemical by the Swedish Government by the end of the 70s. This was a crucial win for the growing Swedish environmental movement, and it no doubt contributed to the formation of the strong environmental awareness and policy which is now mainstream in Sweden. (Ironically, today everybody, including the forestry industry, agrees that killing deciduous trees is a very bad idea, also economically).

Since then, my interest in protecting the environment has only grown. I soon became a member of Youth and Environment Sweden, I chose biology and environmental management as my main subjects at the University, I advocated environmental solutions as board member of a tenant-owner’s society, I worked non-profit for an environmental NGO, and I applied for a position at the Ministry of Environment, eventually working for the Foreign Office as an environmental negotiator to the UN in New York and to the EU in Brussels. Throughout the years, I have remained convinced that, however difficult it might be in some cases, it is possible to change the world and to save the environment.

Moreover, as far as it is possible for someone grown up in the materialized Western world, I try to live as I preach. What I mean by this is that I seek to minimize my own resource and energy use as well as transportation, eat more vegetarian, and recycle and reuse as much as possible. While by no means being an ascetic, I have resolved to live a less resource-intense and materialistic lifestyle than the average Westerner. Not as a “sacrifice” or out of guilt, but as a way to feel more at ease with myself and the surrounding world.

Then we moved to Cape Verde. And as it were, I suddenly felt more ore less forced to give up many of my previous ideals. Here are some key examples:

Transportation: Before moving, we considered that we needed a car, and in retrospect I have to admit that it has been quite indispensable (especially considering that we have a toddler). It is my first car ever, and what is worse, it is a 4WD (albeit one of the markets most energy-efficient models, the new Toyota RAV4). Obviously, this considerably worsens my environmental performance – regardless efforts to minimize driving and to drive efficiently. What is more, our air travel has increased considerably. Given the geography of Cape Verde, unless you choose to stay on the same island, you need to fly to get anywhere in or outside the country. Consequently, the number of kilometers traveled by air has soared during the past year.

Resource and energy use: The perhaps most valuable – and scarce – resource in Cape Verde is water. Being aware of this, I make an effort to minimize water use in the household, for example through decreasing the water pressure, avoiding flushing toilets at night-time, refraining from taking baths, shutting off the water in the shower when shampooing, asking the cleaning lady to use less water, etc. Nevertheless, I am sure that I use much more water per day than the average Cape verdean. My old habits from Sweden, where water is abundant, are hard to give up completely. Regarding energy, we try to limit our consumption, and with the exception of the computer and the refrigerator (I am frustrating my wife by insisting that we need only a small one) we don’t have many electric appliances running. However, during the hot and humid season we are relying on air conditioning to be able to sleep at night, and during this period our electricity use (and cost) skyrockets.

Food habits: Generally, meat-production requires about 10 times as much energy input as vegetable- and grain production, and to eat less meat is therefore increasingly considered as key to reduce overall environmental impact. In addition, vegetarianism is healthier and ethically appealing. I now realize that being a vegetarian is relatively easy provided that you have access to good vegetarian restaurants and good sources of fresh vegetables. This is not the case in Cape Verde, unfortunately, and as a consequence, my meat-eating has increased considerably. On the positive side, Cape Verde can offer a lot of locally captured fish (most of the meat seems to be imported from Brazil).

Waste generation and recycling: So far, I have seen no system for either reuse or recycling in Cape Verde, and consequently there it would be rather pointless to separate our waste (in fact, I have become so accustomed to recycling that I now, being unable to do so, feel quite frustrated). Also, littering is a huge problem. Where I live there is a fairly well-functioning waste collection, but in other parts of the city, as well as in the countryside, waste scattering and dumping is commonplace. Not only does it create a dangerous and un-healthy environment, it also creates a unaesthetic living environment, deterring tourism and promoting depression and perhaps even crime.

Chemicals use: Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find environmentally friendly chemicals in Cape Verde. See my previous blog, “Out of Reach”.

All in all, despite good ambition and real effort, my environmental performance in Cape Verde is bound to be pretty poor. And, without trying to blame this on someone else, I have become ever so convinced that it is absolutely imperative to have strong environmental policies, regulations and incentives in place for any environmental ambition to be fulfilled. Without eco-labelling, it’s almost impossible to choose an environmentally friendly product. Without well functioning, safe and reliable public communications you are left with the car. Without as system for waste prevention, reuse, recycling there is no way to avoid creating lots of garbage. And without strong environmental education there will be no environmental awareness.

I just hope that also the Cape Verdean Government realizes this. I have had a look at their 10 year environmental plan, “PANA II”, and it is without doubt a well elaborated and ambitious document. But it needs to be fully implemented and developed further, as a very high priority. If not, sustainable development for Cape Verde will prove elusive, with a high cost for both the environment and for people’s health and livelihood.

Island charms

A few weeks ago, I got in touch with a Swedish traveler who wanted some advice on what to do and see in Cape Verde. It appeared that his main hobby was to visit all kinds of different islands around the world.

Afterwards, I found myself slightly intrigued by this idea of only traveling to islands – although initially I thought it was a bit odd. Why only islands? I started to search my memory for travels that I have made throughout my life, identifying my favorite spots. Well, there turned out to be a very clear pattern: A great majority of these places was in fact islands. Whether on Bali, Manhattan, Corsica, Corfu or in the Stockholm archipelago, most islands that I have visited have made a special impression, and often a very positive one.

This made me wonder: What is it that makes islands so interesting places to visit? As I am now living in Cape Verde, one of the world’s most unique island countries, it seems natural to give this question some more thought, both in a general context and in a Cape Verdean perspective. These were some of my conclusions.

A sense of overview: Most islands have a limited and clearly defined land area, which I think is generally appealing to many people. Some islands can be circled by foot, others by vehicle; yet others will require days to cross. It creates a certain sense of comfort, of control, of never having to worry about finding your way. This sense of overview is valid for individual islands of Cape Verde, but hardly for the whole country. The islands vary widely in almost every aspect (culture, dialect, size, geology, development, nature etc) and in order to get a good understanding of the whole of Cape Verde Verde you need to visit all of them – which for practical reasons is something of a challenge.

Exotic and unique. I believe all travelers are seeking something different, something out of the ordinary. Many islands are truly exotic, embodying such aspirations. In fact, when you to picture something exotic, you probably think of something like a Caribbean island. I find Cape Verde very exotic in many senses (although for sure very different from the Caribbean).

Less traffic. In most places in the world, traffic is both dangerous and annoying, being a main cause of accidents, stress, noise and pollution. Since on most islands road infrastructure is limited and vehicles can only be imported by boat, the traffic intensity is lower than in the mainland. This means fewer accidents and less noise and pollution, which will create a sense of safety and tranquility.

Island nature and wildlife. Islands often have a very interesting biology, with unique (or as biologists say, endemic) wildlife and plants which cannot be found anywhere else. Many of them also offer great diving. In Ecology, there is even a special theory called the “Island Theory”, which holds that the number of species found on an island is determined by two factors; the distance from the mainland and the island size. The wildlife in Cape Verde can hardly be described as rich, but there are some completely unique plants, birds and reptiles.

Isolation: There is something challenging, something tempting, about being alone in the middle of the sea. It gives a sense of exclusiveness, of uniqueness, which, I believe, many people find themselves attracted to. When being geographically separated from the mainland, it might be easier to disconnect also mentally from all the duties and problems that you confront back home. Of course, in certain situations the feeling of isolation can become too strong. For me, this is almost the case in Cape Verde. When I think about how far it actually is to the mainland, and how extremely dependant I am on a boat or a plane to leave this island, I actually become a little anxious.

Quaint languages or dialects. Somewhat depending on the distance to the mainland, dialects, or in the case of some islands such as those of Cape Verde, separate languages, easily develop. This adds to the flavor and exoticness that make islands special. The Cape Verdean Kriulo certainly makes this country much more interesting.

Island culture. Many island populations also form more distinct cultures than on the mainland. There are some common denominators which will contribute to this: the sea, fishing, isolation, limited infrastructure, absent friends and family who have left for the mainland, etc. Cape Verde has developed a very distinct culture and music style, captured by the word “sodade”, which means something like “loneliness” or “longing”.

Boat trips. Islands all have a special relationship to boats, as the main means of transportation. Most will agree that traveling by boat is usually a pleasant experience. There is something fresh and exciting about boat trips; it makes you think of the smell of sea-salt, strong wind in the hair, sun-drenched decks and adventure. I have never been much of a sailor, and I can’t stand the thought of spending more than a few days at sea – but I do like short journeys by boat, to or in between islands. In Cape Verde, the distance between many of the islands is, unfortunately, too big to easily travel by boat, except between some of the closest ones (e.g. Santiago to Maio or Fogo).

Island food. Just as culture and language on islands tends to diverge and become distinct from those of the mainland, most islands will also develop a specific cuisine. Cape Verde’s national dish is Cachupa, a bean and corn-based casserole with or without meat and fish. I must confess: I am not particularly fond of Cachupa (although at times I can appreciate the “refugada” version, which to some extent reminds me of the Swedish dish “pytt i panna”). But it is certainly different to anything I have tried before.

In summary, it is easy to see that there are many great advantages of islands as compared to the mainland. And for those of you who visit Cape Verde, you will encounter many of them.